Before I start, I’ll qualify this post by
saying that I have never lived in Brazil, I haven’t spent more than four weeks
at a time there, this is simply about what I have observed being around
Brazilians (whether in Brazil, the UK or the USA), what I have experienced in
my trips to Brazil (admittedly trips to the Southeast and Southern regions) and
watching Brazilian tv. These are
generalisations and I know that not everyone is friendly, not everyone is
helpful, not everywhere is beautiful, but the same can be said about anywhere;
nowhere is perfect. So here’s my list:
1. The People
No, my wife didn’t tell me to write this
and no, that isn’t a gun pressed
against my head... really... On the
whole, Brazilians are very friendly, curious and helpful. Obviously there are exceptions to every rule,
but Brazilians have really impressed me.
Brazilian Football Fans |
Brazilians can never have too many friends
and once you are friends with someone, it won’t be long before you are friends
with their friends, their family, their neighbours... And it’s genuine too; they’re usually not
trying to network or thinking about what you can do for them, but showing an
interest in you as a person. They will
invite you round to their house where you will be treated like family, you will
be fed and watered (sometimes to the point of insisting that you should eat
more, you look hungry!) and invite you to parties and events. Even if you don’t know anyone else, you will
soon end up chatting with everyone, with language barriers being the only
potential obstacle.
Which brings me on nicely to...
2. The Language
The first time I heard Brazilian
Portuguese, I found it perplexing. Very
similar to Spanish, but also very different, I never thought I would learn the
language! As I started to learn
Portuguese, I have grown very fond of the language. I find it’s a very flexible and expressive
language with many phrases that I use even when speaking English as they get
across exactly what I mean. I should add
that this is usually with my wife; we have developed a kind of Portu-glish for
everyday use. This sometimes baffles
fellow Brits and bilingual Brazilians find it funny when I drop Portuguese
words into the middle of a sentence.
Brazilians are aware that Portuguese is not
the most obvious language for foreigners to learn – after all, the majority of
countries in South America speak Spanish – so they are generally impressed when
they meet a foreigner that can speak Portuguese, or even one brave enough to
give it a try. I would strongly
encourage anyone visiting Brazil to learn a few phrases – it is invaluable if
you stray away from the big cities, but it will also ingratiate you with your
hosts. This is where Brazilian
helpfulness comes in again, they will be happy to help you learn more.
3. The Food
I like my food and I love Brazilian
food! Before I went to Brazil for the
first time, I asked about the food and got back a three word answer that didn’t
particularly inspire me: “rice and beans.”
Growing up in Britain, my experience of beans was, more often than not, baked
beans. Going through university and
living on cheap supermarket baked beans inspired an aversion to the orange slop
that I can’t escape and the thought of spending a fortnight munching on rice
and beans filled me with dread! Luckily,
I was pleasantly surprised and enjoyed the black beans that can form an
accompaniment to anything, or a meal in their own right. After a few years of marriage, there is
nothing more natural than throwing together a quick meal of steak, rice and
beans!
Feijoada |
The most well known beans dish is feijoada,
a kind of stew consisting of pork, black beans and herbs. This traditional dish dates back to the era
of slavery when the masters would eat the good parts of the pig, leaving the
less desirable parts of the animal to the slaves. Feijoada was an effort to make something
edible and tasty from this undesirable meat and results in a dish that looks an
unappealing purplish-grey with random chunks of meat floating in it. The first time I saw feijoada, I was really
not impressed, but as my friends were so keen, I thought “oh well”, closed my
eyes, thought of England and... was pleasantly surprised! The second time I saw feijoada, I was again
unimpressed and not particularly sure I wanted to get involved; but this time,
it was all we ordered so I got stuck in and was once again impressed. It wasn’t until the fourth or fifth time that
I was able to look at feijoada and think “that looks good.”
Costelinha (ribs) on the barbecue |
Then there’s churrasco, or barbecue. The first time I went to a churrascaria, or
barbecue restaurant, I was in love! The
meat is brought to the tables on skewers where the waiter slices off as much or
little meat as you like and it is always hot and fresh. This style of restaurant is becoming more
popular in other countries and I have been to several in Britain and the US,
but none compare to the real thing!
I could go on and on about the food, but
maybe that should be left for another day!
4. Snacks
Coxinhas |
Ok, I said I wouldn’t go on about food, but
Brazilian snacks deserve a special mention.
Pasteis (pastry filled with meat or cheese and fried) and coxinhas
(pointed balls of dough, stuffed with chicken and fried) are just two examples
that start my mouth watering just to think of them. And then wash it down with some Guarana! Ok, I’ll behave.
5. Chocolates
I lied, but I don’t think this needs any
explanation. Next...
6. Football
It should come as no surprise that Brazil
loves football; any country with five World Cup wins is bound to have some
measure of affection for the game. It
does not take long for the subject of football to appear in a conversation,
with obligatory questions about the team you support. The quality of club football in Brazil is,
again unsurprisingly, of a very high level.
The games are marked by high speed, skilful play and very passionate
fans, although this passion can often lead to the more ugly side of the game
with fights and riots not uncommon.
Aside from watching the pros, the amateur
game is very much alive in Brazil with groups of friends regularly meeting up
for a game, followed by a barbecue and a beer or few.
7. Music
I started listening to Brazilian music as a
way of improving my Portuguese and just got hooked! I starting listening to Bossa Nova by artists
such as Vinicius de Moraes and Toquinho and gradually learned the lyrics, which
in turn helped me to remember some of the rules of the language, such as
conjugating verbs in the past tense (much more enjoyable than sitting down with
a textbook!) I was then introduced to
more contemporary music (I particularly like rock music) which has also
improved my language skills, especially becoming familiar with common
expressions. For anyone interested, I
highly recommend Charlie Brown Jr, Skank and CPM 22.
8. The Landscape
Waterfall in Serra da Canastra, Minas Gerais |
Everyone knows that Brazil has very
beautiful beaches, but there is so much more to the country. The majority of my visits to Brazil have been
to the south, which is where my wife is from (Pato Branco, a small city in
Southwest Paraná that is closer to Argentina than the beach) so I have not seen
all that the country has to offer, although I intend to put that right. But those places I have seen, have taken my
breath away. From hiking in Serra da
Canastra in Mias Gerais, to abseiling down waterfalls in Paraná, enjoying a
refreshing drink of coconut water in Parque Ibirapuera, São Paulo to exploring
the forests and beaches of Ilha do Mel, Paraná, it is impossible not to be
enchanted with the place. I’m sure I’ll
add to this once I have been to the other places on the list: lençois
maranhenses, Olinda, Pantanal, Serra Gaúcha...
9. The Cities
It’s easy to be negative about cities and
to come up with lazy generalisations but if you look beneath the surface, there
is usually a lot hidden below. A lot of
people I have spoken to dismiss São Paulo is big, busy and ugly. While I have to agree that it is big – well,
only the largest city in South America, busy – I refer you to my previous
point, and parts of it are ugly, there is a lot more to it. I was surprised to find the calm of the
botanical gardens and the relaxation of a walk in Parque Ibirapuera (even
though half the city seemed to be there as well.) There are beautiful building like the
Paulista Museum and Vila de São Paulo and then more modern buildings such as
the Banespa Building and the São Paulo Museum of Modern Art. These aren’t for everyone, but I like
them!
Museu do Olho, Curitiba |
But my favourite city has to be Curitiba,
the capital of Paraná. The city is
beautiful, with colourful buildings, parks and interesting architecture. It is easy to pass several hours in the
botanical gardens and marvelling at the Museu do Oscar Niemayer, or Museu do
Olho (eye museum) as it is affectionately known. The city is well thought out, with dedicated
bus lanes and an efficient public transport system that makes it easy to get
around. It is a city that I could easily
see myself living in.
10. Political Awareness
Protesters around Brazil |
No country is perfect and of course Brazil
is included in that. One of the biggest
problems that the country faces is gross corruption. For many years, Brazilians complained about
corruption but threw their hands up in the air: “what can we do about it?” In 2013, O gigante acordou – the giant
awoke. The people saw money being taken
away from schools and hospitals and finally took to the streets to
protest. Brazilian expats around the
world also held protests, with a trending twitter hashtag of #changebrazil, the
world sat up and took notice – after all, they were protesting during a major
football competition, so it MUST have been serious. During this time, many of my friends spoke of
their pride of being Brazilian and in the people trying to change their country
for the better. This ultimately leads me
back to my first point; it is the people that make Brazil so special.
Hi there, very sweet your account on Brazil. I know that certain things about it can be very difficult to deal, such as bureaucracy and the language barrier, but it is indeed a great country as well. It is lovely to see foreigners falling in love with my country. Good luck to you.
ReplyDelete...and the good thing about Brazil is that the language barrier isn't as much of a barrier as it could be and everyone is keen to teach a gringo to speak Portuguese!
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